2.0T Competition Catch Can Instructions

Thank you for purchasing a BSH Catch Can kit for your 2.0T. The kit should include the
following components. Please make sure they are all in the box before continuing. If you
bought any additional upgrades their specific parts list will be included separately.
Required tools are not included.

Parts  Tools
1x Valve Cover Plate T20 Torx
1x Valve Cover Plate Nipple w/ O-ring  T30 Torx
1x Manifold Cap w/ oring Adjustable Wrench
3x Manifold Cap Retaining Screws Flat Head Screw Driver
2x Valve Cover Plate Fittings 3/32 Allen Wrench
1x Hose 4mm Allen Wrench
1x Catch Can w/ Dip Stick & Drain  Ratchet
1x Catch Can Mounting Bracket Deep 11mm Socket
1x Catch Can Mounting Clamp Standard 11mm Socket
1x Catch Can Mounting Hardware kit

Step 1: Remove factory accordion hose that leads from the Intake manifold to the Front PCV assembly. This is done by pinching the connectors on both sides and pulling away.


Step 2: Install the manifold block off plug. Make sure the O-ring is properly seated in its groove before installing. Apply a dab of motor oil to the O-ring to help it slide on. It is easiest to install by doing a slight twisting motion. When you have it on the manifold look at the opening on the plug and make sure the bolt holes have cleared the lip on the manifold. When this is done, apply a small drop of blue loctite to each one of the set screws. When installing the set screws DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM. These screws hold the cap in place by locking it against the lip on the manifold. There is no need to apply force to them. Allow the loctite to dry before driving.


Step 3: Remove the front PCV assembly. Start by removing the hose on the driver side. The clip that holds it in place has 4 teeth. Remove the side teeth and the top tooth by gently lifting them up and over the lip on the nipple one at a time with your flat head screwdriver. When those are free of the lip, slide it off. Be patient with it, don’t break the clip. When the hose is removed, then remove the 4 T25 torx screws holding the front PCV in place. Make sure to keep the screws as they will be re-used. With the screws removed the front assembly will come off.


Step 4: Install the PCV Nipple and the PCV Guidance Block. You must do this as follows for the part to fit properly. First install the guidance plate with the nipple off of it in order to access all the screw holes. Line it up and re-install using the factory screws. Once installed and sitting flush install the PCV nipple and snug it tight with an adjustable wrench. Now install the factory PCV hose onto the nipple. This is a tight fit and you will want to guide the O-rings into the hole with the tip of your flat head screwdriver.

Note: Do not apply to much force to when re-installing the factory hardware. The needed torque is 30 in/lbs so take it very easy on them.

Step 5: Install the billet fitting on the valve cover the valve cover plate. First apply a bit of blue loctite to the threads and then tighten them in by hand as far as they will go. Snug them down with your adjustable wrench. Do not force them to go in any further then they want to. They are cut to provide relief from the valve cover.

Step 6: Mount the catch can clamp to the bracket and then slide the catch can into the clamp. You will want to begin tightening the clamp while it’s still off the car. Leave the clamp loose enough so you can still move the can around in order to position once in the car. The goal is to minimize the amount of work you have to do in the engine bay.

Step 7: Remove the two T30 Torx screws on the passenger side of the radiator shroud and then slide the bracket between the shroud and the metal backing plate. Put a little bit of pressure with your hands on the shroud when re-installing the screws to make sure everything lines up properly. Snug the screws down.

Step 8: Now run your lines. It does not matter which line goes to which fitting as the internal baffles run down the center of the catch can. The connection on both the valve cover and the catch can are push lock and therefore do not require hose clamps. The below picture has the lines long to show positioning. Cut to an attractive length leaving enough room for engine movement. Once the hose has been ran, fully tighten the clamp holding the catch can.


Step 8: Start the car up and check for leaks. If the engine bucks or surges then you have a leak and will need to make sure everything is seated properly. If you notice a putting sound coming from your intake it is caused by the check valve in the PCV port on the rear of the valve cover. This check valve is sealed at rest and when pressure builds up behind it the valve will open creating a putt sound. This is not harmful and if found to be an annoyance the check valve can be removed from the rear port.

Maintenance: For the first few weeks you have the can installed monitor how much blowby you are collecting. You will need to monitor how much blowby from your individual car ends up in the catch can and judge how often you need to drain. This will vary from car to car.

You will collect a mixture of oil, water, and fuel vapor in your catch can. Expect the quantity of water to greatly increase during the winter months. Every 3-4 months remove the top fitting and clean out the can with brake cleaner. Also clean out your catch can lines.

It is of utmost importance that you do not let the catch can reach full. If the can is allowed to become full the crank case pressure will no longer be able to be vented which can lead to engine problems.

**Important Note**
Customers in regions of the world that drop well into the freezing temperatures during the winter will need to keep a watchful eye on the volume of water collected in the can. One of the main fluids caught in the can is condensation (water). In the winter months the amount of condensation caught in the can will dramatically increase. If left in the can in freezing temperatures there is a possibility that this water could freeze. If frozen, pcv flow will be inhibited. Make sure to keep an eye on your fluid levels.