2.0T Race PCV Instructions

Thank you for purchasing a BSH Race PCV kit for your 2.0T FSI. The kit should include
the following components. Please make sure they are all in the box before continuing. If
you bought any additional upgrades their specific parts list will be included separately.
Required tools are not included.

Parts  Tools
1x Valve Cover Plate 3/32 Allen Wrench
1x Valve Cover Plate Fittings 5/32 Allen Wrench
1x VW Connector with -10 Push Lock End  7/16 Wrench
1x Catch Can 1” Wrench
1x Breather Filter #10 Ano Wrench (Normal Wrench Can be used)
1x 45* -10 Fitting T25 Torx
1x Straight – 10 Fitting T30 Torx
1x Bracket Razor Blade
1x T Bolt Mounting Clamp Blue Loctite
2x Bolts for mounting clamp
2x Nuts for mounting clamp
1x Push Lock Hose
1x Manifold Block Off Cap
3x Short Screws For Manifold Block Off Cap
1x O-Ring For Block Off Cap

This kit should only be installed by a professional. This guide is only meant as an outline and is not intended to teach a novice how to do the job. If you are unsure of your ability stop and take your car to a professional.

Step 1: Remove factory accordion hose that leads from the Intake manifold to the Front PCV assembly. This is done by pinching the connectors on both sides and pulling away.


Step 2: Install the manifold block off plug. Make sure the O-ring is properly seated in its groove before installing. Apply a dab of motor oil to the O-ring to help it slide on. It is easiest to install by doing a slight twisting motion. When you have it on the manifold, look at the opening on the plug and make sure the bolt holes have cleared the lip on the manifold. When this is done, apply a small drop of blue loctite to each one of the set screws. Allow the loctite to dry before driving.


Step 3: Remove the front PCV assembly. Start by removing the hose on the driver side. The clip that holds it in place has 4 teeth. Remove the side teeth and the top tooth by gently lifting them up and over the lip on the nipple one at a time with your flat head screwdriver. When those are free of the lip, slide it off. Be patient with it, don’t break the clip. When the hose is removed, then remove the 4 T25 torx screws holding the front PCV in place. Make sure to keep the screws as they will be re-used. With the screws removed the front assembly will come off.


Step 4:
The end of hose that you removed from the right side of the valve cover needs to be rotated 180 degrees. Grab it firmly and turn it. When done, clip the connector inside of it. Next install the valve cover plate in the same fashion as you removed the OEM one. Reuse the factory screws starting with the top screw and then the bottom one. When done, thread in the valve cover fitting. This is an NPT threaded part and seals as you thread it in.


Note: Do not apply to much force to when re-installing the factory hardware. The needed torque is 30 in/lbs so take it very easy on them.

Step 5: Install the catch can clamp to the mounting bracket. Once secured, install the bracket onto the car. The bracket mounts off the two bolts on the front left corner of the engine bay. You will use your T30 torx to remove these bolts.

Step 6: Lower the can into the bracket and snug it up. The fittings will be sitting just above the clamp. Leave enough play it so you can orient your fittings. Install the 45* degree on the port furthest back, the straight on the closer side to the radiator shroud.

Step 7: Now run your lines. Leave just a little bit of slack to allow for engine movement. Once cut to length ,slide the lines over the fittings, all connections are push lock and do not require hose clamps to seal. It does not matter which line you run to which fitting.


Step 8: Install your breather filter to the top of the can.

Step 9: Start the car up and check for leaks. If the engine bucks or surges then you have a leak and will need to make sure everything is seated properly. If you notice a putting sound coming from your intake it is caused by the check valve in the PCV port on the rear of the valve cover. This check valve is sealed at rest and when pressure builds up behind it the valve will open creating a putt sound. This is not harmful and if found to be an annoyance the check valve can be removed from the rear port. Maintenance: For the first few weeks you have the can installed monitor how much blowby you are collecting. You will need to monitor how much blowby from your individual car ends up in the catch can and judge how often you need to drain. This will vary from car to car.

You will collect a mixture of oil, water, and fuel vapor in your catch can. Expect the quantity of water to greatly increase during the winter months.

It is of utmost importance that you do not let the catch can reach full. If the can is allowed to become full the crank case pressure will no longer be able to be vented which can lead to engine problems.

When you drain the can, spray the insides out with carb cleaner or brake cleaner to keep the walls from gumming up.

**Important Note**
Customers in regions of the world that drop well into the freezing temperatures during the winter will need to keep a watchful eye on the volume of water collected in the can. One of the main fluids caught in the can is condensation (water). In the winter months the amount of condensation caught in the can will dramatically increase. If left in the can in freezing temperatures there is a possibility that this water could freeze. If frozen, pcv flow will be inhibited. Make sure to keep an eye on your fluid levels.